Diran Peak Expedition
(7266M)

Diran Peak Expedition Overview

Diran Peak, rising to 7,272 meters, stands prominently in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Range of the western Karakoram. While its exact height was once debated, there is now general agreement on its elevation. This elegant and striking mountain commands the Gilgit Valley, enhancing the stark landscape with its graceful form. The first successful ascent of Diran came in 1968, when a three-member Austrian team—Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger, and Hanns Schell—turned to Diran after being denied access to Kampire Dior. Their expedition faced significant challenges, including massive crevasses, deep snow, and harsh weather between Camps I (4,800m) and II. Eventually, they reached the summit from Camp III, describing it as a “broad summit plateau.” Several earlier attempts to climb Diran were unsuccessful. In 1958, a British team tried the northwest face but lost its leader, E.G.C. Warr, and member F.C. Hoyt, who disappeared during a storm just 300 feet below the summit. In 1959, a German expedition led by Hans Jochen Schneider was initially set to explore the Batura Glacier but redirected to the Rakaposhi area after permit issues. One climber, Erwin Stocker, and a local porter reached an 18,000-foot col north of Diran and approached within 1,000 feet of the summit. In 1964, an Austrian group from Salzburg attempted the northwest face but was turned back due to severe weather and avalanche risk. A year later, the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation of Japan launched an expedition, having previously scouted the peak in 1963. Despite getting within 250 feet of the top, they were forced to retreat due to fierce winds and heavy snow.

Expedition Gallery

Included Services

• Liaison with the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for the permit process and the measurement of the liaison officer.
• The process of import and export permits from the Ministry of Tourism.
• Clearance of cargo prior to the team's arrival and its storage.
• Welcome reception and meeting at the Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad.
• Hotel accommodation and meals as per the hotels listed in the itinerary.
• All meals during the trek and at base camp.
• All road transfers and sightseeing as per the itinerary.
• Porterage of 75 kg per person for expedition equipment and high-altitude food to Base Camp, and 50 kg per person on return from Base Camp.
• Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent with tables, chairs, and camping ground fees.
• Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel, and related community gear.
• Wages and basic kit for the guide, Sardar, cook, and assistants.
• Insurance for our field staff and low-altitude porters (excluding helicopter rescue).
• Mail handling/forwarding to Base Camp.
• Reconfirmation of the air ticket.
• All expenses of the liaison officer.
• Pollution fee: $200
• CKNP fee: $68 per person.

Not Included

• International air ticket and airport taxes.
• Visa fee to Pakistan and personal insurance of the client.
• Cargo fee and customs charges for import and export.
• Sleeping bags, personal clothing, and climbing gear of any kind beyond base camp, including high-altitude food and oxygen.
• Room services, laundry, beverages, personal phone calls, and soft drinks.
• Medications, ground evacuations, and helicopter rescue charges (approximately $10,000), etc.
• Food above base camp for members and high-altitude porters.
• Porters and staff tips.
• Any other services not mentioned in the included services above.