Spantik Peak Expedition
(7027M)

Spantik Peak Expedition Overview

Spantik Peak can be ascended via two different routes. The first successful ascent was made by Mikhail Davy and Alexander Klenov. Initially, they climbed using the first section of the English Route, then switched to a new route that required 11 camps. In 1987, an international team led by Victor Saunders chose the English Route for their climb, reaching the summit in 5 days, from August 5th to August 11th, 1987. They faced some of the most challenging rock faces in the entire Karakoram Range. Located in the Haramoshi and Rakaposhi massif, Spantik Peak is near the Barpu Garumbar glaciers. On some maps, the peak is listed as Yengutz Peak, while others refer to it as Genish Chish, which translates to "peak" in the local language. In 1892, W.M. Conway's expedition explored the glaciers surrounding the peak and ventured toward the Nushik Pass, where the team estimated the elevation of the peak to be around 5273 meters. They descended via the Arandu and Kero Lungma glaciers. In 1959, a British-Pakistan Army expedition focused on the Kero Lungma and Chogolungma glaciers, aiming to explore the region and summit smaller peaks. However, Spantik was first successfully climbed from the south ridge by a Japanese team known as Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms), led by Nakamura. In the same year, another Japanese team from the Reiho Alpine Club, led by Y. Murata, also climbed the peak via the south ridge. Both teams noted the dangers of avalanches in the region, a constant threat on the climb.

Expedition Gallery

Included Services

• Liaison with the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for the permit process and the measurement of the liaison officer.
• The process of import and export permits from the Ministry of Tourism.
• Clearance of cargo prior to the team's arrival and its storage.
• Welcome reception and meeting at the Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad.
• Hotel accommodation and meals as per the hotels listed in the itinerary.
• All meals during the trek and at base camp.
• All road transfers and sightseeing as per the itinerary.
• Porterage of 75 kg per person for expedition equipment and high-altitude food to Base Camp, and 50 kg per person on return from Base Camp.
• Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent with tables, chairs, and camping ground fees.
• Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel, and related community gear.
• Wages and basic kit for the guide, Sardar, cook, and assistants.
• Insurance for our field staff and low-altitude porters (excluding helicopter rescue).
• Mail handling/forwarding to Base Camp.
• Reconfirmation of the air ticket.
• All expenses of the liaison officer.
• Pollution fee: $200
• CKNP fee: $68 per person.

Not Included

• International air ticket and airport taxes.
• Visa fee to Pakistan and personal insurance of the client.
• Cargo fee and customs charges for import and export.
• Sleeping bags, personal clothing, and climbing gear of any kind beyond base camp, including high-altitude food and oxygen.
• Room services, laundry, beverages, personal phone calls, and soft drinks.
• Medications, ground evacuations, and helicopter rescue charges (approximately $10,000), etc.
• Food above base camp for members and high-altitude porters.
• Porters and staff tips.
• Any other services not mentioned in the included services above.