Ultar Sar Peak Expedition
(7388M)

Ultar Sar Peak Expedition Overview

The first successful summits of the peak occurred in 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions. The initial ascent was made on July 11 by a team from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club, led by Akito Yamazaki. Alongside him was Kiyoshi Matsuoka, who tragically died a year later on the nearby Bublimotin peak. The team approached from the southwest, adopting alpine-style climbing and often climbing at night to avoid falling rocks and ice. After reaching the summit, they were caught in severe storms and had to bivouac for several days without food before making their way back to basecamp. Tragically, Yamazaki passed away due to an internal illness after their descent. The second ascent took place on July 31 via the south ridge, led by Ken Takahashi, with team members Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. A third ascent was made by British-born Pakistani climber Daniel Akbar, who soloed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, utilizing some of the fixed ropes from previous expeditions. On July 1, 2018, Pakistani Army pilots conducted a daring rescue mission to save three foreign mountaineers who had been caught in a snow avalanche at an altitude of over 19,000 feet (5,800 meters) on Ultar Sar Peak, near Hunza. Bruce Normand and Timothy Miller from the UK were successfully rescued, but their companion, Christian Huber from Austria, tragically did not survive the avalanche.

Expedition Gallery

Included Services

• Liaison with the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for the permit process and the measurement of the liaison officer.
• The process of import and export permits from the Ministry of Tourism.
• Clearance of cargo prior to the team's arrival and its storage.
• Welcome reception and meeting at the Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad.
• Hotel accommodation and meals as per the hotels listed in the itinerary.
• All meals during the trek and at base camp.
• All road transfers and sightseeing as per the itinerary.
• Porterage of 75 kg per person for expedition equipment and high-altitude food to Base Camp, and 50 kg per person on return from Base Camp.
• Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent with tables, chairs, and camping ground fees.
• Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel, and related community gear.
• Wages and basic kit for the guide, Sardar, cook, and assistants.
• Insurance for our field staff and low-altitude porters (excluding helicopter rescue).
• Mail handling/forwarding to Base Camp.
• Reconfirmation of the air ticket.
• All expenses of the liaison officer.
• Pollution fee: $200
• CKNP fee: $68 per person.

Not Included

• International air ticket and airport taxes.
• Visa fee to Pakistan and personal insurance of the client.
• Cargo fee and customs charges for import and export.
• Sleeping bags, personal clothing, and climbing gear of any kind beyond base camp, including high-altitude food and oxygen.
• Room services, laundry, beverages, personal phone calls, and soft drinks.
• Medications, ground evacuations, and helicopter rescue charges (approximately $10,000), etc.
• Food above base camp for members and high-altitude porters.
• Porters and staff tips.
• Any other services not mentioned in the included services above.